On the first day of creation, God created the dog.
On the second day, God created man to serve the dog.
On the third day, God created all the animals of the earth (especially the horse) to serve as potential food for the dog.
On the fourth day, God created honest toil so that man could labour for the good of the dog.
On the fifth day, God created the tennis ball so that the dog might or might not retrieve it.
On the sixth day, God created veterinary science to keep the dog healthy and the man broke.
On the seventh day, God tried to rest, but He had to walk the dog.
A Dog's Daily Routine
The day is divided into two important sections: the all-important mealtime, and everything else.
I. Mealtime
Just because there does not seem to be anything visible around to eat certainly does not mean there is nothing around to eat. The act of staring at the underside of a table or chair on which someone else is eating sets in motion a chain of events that eventually results in food.
It goes without saying that you should carefully check the lower third of any space for edibles. Mouth-sized things which cannot be identified by sight or smell are considered gum.
When you actually receive a meal, submerge your head into it as you would a shower. Never, never look up again until a minimum of at least fifteen minutes after the obvious food is gone. This is important. Just because your dish is empty does not mean that it is time to stop eating.
Remember that all food is potentially yours up until the time that it is actually swallowed by another. The lengthy path a piece of food will take from a plate to a mouth via a hand is as good a time as any to stake your claim to it.
When it comes to selecting an appropriate beverage, location and packaging mean nothing. There are absolutely no exceptions to this rule.
If you really see something you want, and all your other attempts at getting it have failed, it is only right to grovel shamelessly. As a second tactic, stare intently at the object of your desire, allowing long gelatinous drools to leak like icicles from your lower lip.
II. Everything Else
There are really only two important facial expressions to bother with: complete and overwhelming joy and nothing at all.
Any time that is not meal time is potentially nap time. The best time to take a nap is when you hear your name being called repeatedly. The best location for a nap is dead center of any street or driveway. The most relaxing position is on your side, all four limbs parallel.
The most practical way to get dry is to shake violently near a fully clothed person. A second effective method is to stand on a light-colored piece of furniture.
Personal Safety
At the first hint of any irregular noise, run from room to room barking loudly. If someone actually comes into the house, rush over to them whether you know them or not. Then kiss them so violently that they lose their balance or have to force you away physically.
The greatest unacknowledged threat to life as we have come to know it is squirrels. No matter what you must do, make sure there are none in your yard.
Recreation and Leisure
Ball: There are two equally amusing sets of rules you will want to know.
The Common Form, in which you receive a thrown ball and return it.
The Preferred Form, in which you receive a thrown ball and eat it.
Car: As you know, any open car door is an invitation to get in. Once inside, your only goal is to try to get out.
Health: In the event of a trip to the doctor, always be on your guard. If you are vaccinated, urinate on the physician.
How to Photograph a Puppy
Remove film from box and load camera.
Remove film box from puppy's mouth and throw in trash.
Remove puppy from trash and brush coffee grounds from muzzle.
Choose suitable background for photo.
Mount camera on tripod and focus.
Find puppy and take dirty sock out of the mouth.
Place puppy in prefocused spot and return to camera.
Forget about spot and crawl after puppy on knees.
Focus with one hand and fend off puppy with the other hand.
Put cat outside and put peroxide on the scratch on puppy's nose.
Put magazines back on coffee table.
Try to get puppy's attention by squeaking toy over your head.
Replace your glasses and check camera for damage.
Jump up in time to grab puppy by the scruff of the neck and say "No..outside!"
Call someone to help clean up the mess.
Sit back in chair for deep breathing and resolve to teach puppy "sit" and "stay" first thing next morning.
For Helpful Pet Resources...Please go to our Updated Pet Resources Page....Only the good Stuff for you!
Mahatma Gandhi...
"the greatness of a nation and its moral progress can be judged by the way its animals are treated."
A Dog's Hope...
(Before treating your pet for any medical condition, please share this information with your Vet and make the right decision for your pet together)
The Importance of Your Dog's Nutrition
Studies
have shown that an estimated 40-50% of dogs are o
verweight, which
significantly increases their chance of contracting serious diseases
and illnesses. Keeping your dog on a nutritious diet not only helps
to keep your him or her at a healthy weight, but may also reduce the
risk of cancer and heart disease.
Follow
these simple guidelines and your dog can enjoy a happy and healthier
lifestyle:
Feed a Lean Diet
Feeding your dog a brand of pet food that is natural and high in vitamins and nutrients play a large part in maintaining your dog's overall health. To give your dog the best nutrition, consider feeding your dog a 5-star rated pet food. We recommend Go! Fit + Free Grain Free Adult Recipe Dry Dog Food for dogs that are active or working breeds, and require high amounts of protein. If your dog is overweight or senior, try Now Fresh Grain Free Senior Recipe Dry Dog Food. Or, you prefer to feed your dog wet food, there is also Go! Natural Canned Dog Food available in delicious grain free flavors (Chicken, Turkey & Duck, or Freshwater Trout) and wholesome formulas Chicken & Vegetable, and Salmon & Vegetable.
Avoid
Giving Too Many Treats Refrain
from giving your dog too many extra treats. They contain extra
calories that can add extra weight. Rather than using excess food or
treats as a source of vitamins and nutrients, use vitamin supplements
instead.
Exercise
Your Dog Daily
Maintaining
a daily exercise routine can help to keep your dog at his or her
healthiest. Even when you're away at work, you can keep your dog
physically and mentally stimulated with a toy like the Buster
Food Cube.
Over 90% of geriatric cats have arthritis
Over 12 million cats in the US have arthritis
1 out of every 5 dogs over the age of 7 has arthritis
What Is Arthritis?
Arthritis means inflammation of the joint. The most common arthritis in dogs and cats is osteoarthritis (OA), named because the problem is caused by the bones (osteo). Pet arthritis (also known as feline arthritis or canine arthritis) can also be caused by infection (septic arthritis or bacterial arthritis in dogs) or by the body attacking itself in an immune system malfunction (rheumatoid arthritis).
With pet osteoarthritis, bones are damaged because cartilage has given way. Cartilage is there to act as a cushion preventing bone from hitting bone as the joint moves. If the cartilage dries, roughens, or chips, bare bones are exposed. The exposed bone flattens and loses resilience so the joint no longer moves smoothly; it jerks and creaks. In response, the body sends white blood cells to the joint, but instead of repairing damage, the white blood cells release enzymes and free radicals that make things worse. The synovial fluid bathing the joint loses viscosity because it is damaged by the white blood cells' enzymes. As the synovial fluid thins, it's no longer able to resist joint compression or provide lubrication. Eventually, even the capsule that surrounds the joint inflames. The pet then has painful arthritis.
DENTAL ISSUES
Why is Dental Care Important for My Pet?
Although veterinarians explain the importance of brushing, 65% of pet owners do not brush their pet's teeth. You can be in the group of pet owners who protects their pets' teeth by investing just 2 minutes a day in brushing. Your pet will be healthier and you will enjoy their fresher breath. Below are a list of common questions pet owners ask about dental diseases in both dogs and cats.
How often should your veterinarian check your pet's teeth?
Each time your pet visits the clinic, the veterinarian should check your pet's mouth. At minimum, your pet should have their mouth thoroughly examined at least once a year. After your pet reaches 7 years old, they should be examined twice a year. An older pet's heart, kidneys and liver are more sensitive to the effects of the bacteria that cause dental disease.
If my pet's teeth look clean, can it have dental disease?
Perhaps. The visible crown of the tooth is not the most important area for dental disease—the important area is just under the edge of the gum, or the gingival margin where it is difficult for you to see without using dental tools. This area, as well as the crown, is assessed by the veterinary dentist.
Why does my pet have stinky breath?
Bad breath, or halitosis, is caused by bacteria in the mouth. The highest concentration of bacteria, and the biggest problem, is beneath the gum line. In addition, bacteria are present on teeth; and, if there is bleeding from the gums, a thick layer of bacteria mingles with the blood.
Bad breath is a symptom of dental disease. Fix bad breath by fixing the teeth and gums.
Why do small breed dogs have more dental problems than large breed dogs?
For the past few hundred years we have bred some dogs to be smaller in size. The genes that control body size have been easier to influence than the genes that influence tooth size. Thus, we have small-bred dogs whose mouths are full of teeth that remain genetically suited to a somewhat larger dog.
Do some cat breeds have more problems with dental disease than other breeds?
Yes. Dental (periodontal) disease is common in Maine Coon, Ragdoll, and Oriental breeds. These cats often have dental disease that is more severe or progresses more rapidly than in other breeds.
How common is dental disease?
By 3 years of age, 80% of dogs and 70% of cats have oral disease. Periodontal disease is the most common infectious disease of pets. Fortunately, much of it is preventable with brushing.
If I brush my pet's teeth every day, can they still have dental disease?
It might. Dental disease is caused by the type of bacteria in your pet's mouth. Some pets never develop dental disease regardless of oral care. Other pets develop dental disease despite exceptional care. All pets benefit from having their teeth brushed.
Why don't we floss pets' teeth?
Human teeth are positioned more closely and have more molar contact surfaces than pet molars have. The contact areas benefit the most from flossing. You can reach 90% of the surface of a dog's teeth just by brushing; flossing is not essential.
What causes tooth decay?
A thin layer of food particles, dead cells and proteins from saliva form plaque on the teeth and gums. The plaque layer begins forming within 20 minutes of being brushed. Plaque thickens and hardens becoming a calculus unless it is removed by brushing.
Is dental plaque linked to heart disease?
Yes. The bacteria in plaque is linked to heart disease, heart attack, and cardiac arrhythmia.
Is dental disease linked to kidney disease, lung disease, and bladder infection?
Yes. Pets can develop serious, even life-threatening, illness due to the bacteria in their mouths when they have dental disease. Among the organs damaged by these oral bacteria are the kidneys, lungs, and bladder.
You may think that your kitty is self-sufficient, but like any other pets; she needs your help to ensure her excellent health. This means that you need to bring your kitty to your local animal clinic for regular check-ups and get her the vaccine shots required to protect her from cat illnesses and diseases. Prevention and early detection of diseases and health problems are the keys to ensuring that you cat is in excellent condition.
As a pet owner, you must also educate yourself about the common ailments that your pet might suffer from. The more aware you are about their ailments and symptoms, the better you can provide care and treatment before the illness becomes fatal. Here are a few of the most common cat health problems.
Skin Problems
This is a very common problem among felines. You might discover skin problems in your kitty when you groom them, and chances are it is still treatable. Itching and hair loss are the common symptoms of dermatological problems. Other symptoms might include dry skin, redness, blisters, scabs, or bad skin odor. If you notice that your cat is scratching her body excessively, or if she bites or chews at herself, you must try to pinpoint the cause of the irritation and take the necessary action. The most common causes of skin problems are:
Food allergies
Flea allergies
Fungal infection
It is vital to address this condition as soon as you observe the symptoms on your cats. In addition, make sure that it is not a skin problem that can be transmitted to you or your other feline friends.
Heartworm Disease
Cats are not the usual host for heartworm; however, felines who are infested with them might show certain symptoms, such as coughing, vomiting, and respiratory problems. This disease can be fatal and it is very unfortunate that there is no known treatment. Thankfully, many cats can fight this disease on their own. In addition, veterinarians may also prescribe medication to reduce the symptoms or they might perform surgery to remove the heartworms; however, this is also a risky procedure.
Obesity
Based on recent studies, about 50% of cats are overweight. Cat obesity is very common and it can be the result of free-feeding or making food available to cats all day and all week, high-carb dry food, and sedentary lifestyle. You have to understand that obesity can lead to other health problems. In fact, obese felines are more likely to suffer from diabetes, non-allergic skin problems, and they have a higher risk of developing liver disease.
Feline Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD)
This is a general term for various conditions that affect the feline bladder and urethra. The common symptoms of this condition are:
This condition is commonly diagnosed in overweight or middle-aged cats that are in a dry food diet or have restricted access outside. It is vital to provide your kitty with fresh, clean water supply to help increase their water intake. In doing so, you can prevent this condition from developing.
This article is written by a writer who specializes in pet care and health. She advises her readers to consult a vet from Arbor Vet to find out more about the common cat health problems and how to prevent them.
However lovely, sweet and sociable your cat might be towards you and your family, the same may not be true when it comes to other cats. Just like humans, some cats are very social with other cats however others can be most reserved about spending time with other cats and may prefer to be on their own.
This is a very important idea to understand as many owners think that getting a second cat will help their existing cat be more sociable and 'better' with others. This is a very risky move as you can never be sure how a cat will react to another. It might be that the new cat is very social and respects the existing cat in which case, the situation may prove beneficial and it might all go well. Alternatively, your new cat may also feel uncomfortable around others which can lead to an agitated, highly charged household and can be dangerous for the owners especially if they have children.
Why is your Cat being Aggressive?
There are a few reasons why your cat is acting aggressively:
• Territorial Aggression
• Defensive Aggression
• Displaced Aggression
Territorial Aggression
This kind of aggression occurs when the cat feels that there is an intruder in their 'marked' territory. The most common reason for this kind of aggression is when your cat sees another animal (or in some cases, human) in the garden or when a new cat is brought home by the owner. This is why getting a second cat after the other has settled can be a dangerous decision that might not work out. Bear in mind that females can be just as territorial as males.
Kittens learn to socialise and interact from an early age. This means that if you get your cat at an early age, it will overcome its natural fear and avoidance tendencies and interact with other unfamiliar humans better at a later stage. In the same sense, if your cat grows up with other cats, the same bonds will be strengthened and it is likely that it will react better to new cats in the future.
Defensive Aggression
This is where the cat feels threatened and become aggressive in order to protect itself usually because they feel they cannot escape.
This kind of aggression is probably less likely than other forms but can be stimulated by other aggressive animals or the threat, or act, of punishment by the owner. Usually if a cat feels threatened in this way it will crouch down low, stare at the potential threat and remain very still. If you see your cat in this posture, it is best not to approach it but instead, look for what the cat is nervous about and deal with it accordingly.
Displaced Aggression
Have you ever had a bad day at work to then come back home and be snappy or short with your family? It's very likely you have or you have had a similar situation because displaced aggression in humans is a very common condition and the same is true for cats.
In general, this form of aggression refers to when a cat acts aggressively to a person or animal that did not initially provoke the behaviour. For example, if your cat sees another playing with its toys in the garden, it is likely to get agitated for territorial reasons and when you then go to stroke him, he turns and bites you. Usually, they will release very quickly as they realise who it is but this kind of aggression is extremely reflex based so don't take it too personally.
What to do
• Breakup fights - Don't think that fights are debates where eventually the cats will understand the other and work things out. The more they fight the worse things will get so try to break them up where possible. Do not try to get involved yourself! Use loud sounds or water to break them up, not your hand.
• Try to incentivise good behaviour rather than punishing the bad - positive reinforcement is much more powerful that negative. Give your cat attention and treats when it is behaving well around others. Punishing a cat after a fight is more likely to agitate it even more in the future when in a similar situation and you are likely to be on the receiving end of some displaced aggression.
• Learn from the experience - if your cat doesn't like other cats and your efforts are not helping, it's best to just stop putting the cat in that position rather than trying to change them.
Despite this advice, sometimes cats will be cats and in some cases, why a cat is being aggressive or was aggressive is beyond analysis. Our understanding of animal behaviour is still growing and as a result, there are times when we just don't know why some animals act as they do so don't try to over analyse your cat's behaviour.
If you would like to find out more about cat care then please have a look at http://www.thecatcarer.com where you can find other guides on grooming and bathings as well as product reviews.
Despite all efforts to education the public to the importance of spaying and neutering pet cats, it seems there will always be pregnant cats. Most of the problem is ignorance or laziness, and during the current economical crisis, too many people are putting off spaying and neutering their cats. This is simply false economy. The cost of a spay is considerably less than the cost of saving the Queen when labor goes wrong, costs of treating uterine or breast cancer, to say nothing of the costs of treating and vaccinating the litter.
Whether through their own negligence or because they have rescued a pregnant cat, it is important to first know that pregnancy exists, so proper steps can be taken. That this article is so popular is not surprising.
If your cat was in heat and had access to a tom (unneutered male) cat, the likelihood that she is pregnant is very strong. A pregnant queen will show both physical and personality changes which will become more evident around three weeks after breeding. The gestation period for cats runs from 60 to 67 days. I like to use 63 days as an average, because it is easier to equate with human gestation (nine weeks vs nine months).
Sometime around the fifth week of pregnancy, a pregnant cat's abdomen will start to swell noticeably, and it will continue to enlarge until time for birthing.
Personality Changes in a Pregnant Cat
Increased Affection
Your cat may become more affectionate than normal and frequently seek out your attention. By all means, give it to her!
"Nesting" Activities by a Pregnant Cat
This is not an early sign of pregnancy, but as the time for partruition (birth) approaches, your pregnant cat may seek out quiet, private places for birth to take place.
Clinical Diagnosis of Pregnancy in Cats
If your queen has had regular veterinary care, and the previous signs of pregnancy are evident, it may not be necessary to have an "official" diagnosis by a veterinarian, unless you have reason to fear something is wrong. However (and this is a big consideration), if your intent is to spay her, it is probably better that your veterinarian knows exactly what to expect.
Palpation of the Cat's Abdomen
Your veterinarian may be able to feel fetuses by palpating (feel by gently pressing) your queen's abdomen, usually around the 17th-20th day of pregnancy.
Ultrasound of Your Cat's Abdomen
This diagnostic tool may detect fetuses as early as the second week of pregnancy, and heartbeats may be detected sometime after the third week.
If your resident (or rescued) cat is indeed confirmed pregnant, some serious decision-making time is at hand.
Heat Cycles Cease
This will be the first sign you may notice. If a cat has been suffering heat cycles every 10 days to two weeks, and suddenly stops, it is very likely she is pregnant.
Nipples Swell and Become Rosier in Color
Breeders call this "pinking," and it may be the first physical sign you will see.
Increased Appetite in a Cat
A pregnant cat will show an increased interest in food. After all, she is not only eating for herself, but for several foetuses.
Possible Vomiting
Pregnant queens may be subject to a few bouts of "morning sickness," much as human mothers-to-be. This in itself is not cause for alarm, but if it continues or is frequent, veterinarian intervention is needed.
Most of the "help!" emails I receive are about either health or behavior problems in cats. Readers are often surprised that sometimes there is a connection between the two. Learn more here about the factors related to cats' health.
Also, the behavior section has been expanded with articles and FAQs on cat behavior by our resident expert,Amy Shojai, CABC. You can send your own cat behavior questions to Amy by using the Ask Amy Question Submission Form, linked below
There are a variety of theories as to why some cats bite while being petted. The good news is that there are some things that cat parents can do to stop or discourage this behavior.
Many of us cat parents notice that when we pet our furry "children", they sometimes turn around a bite our hands. Why do cats do that? Dog parents smugly state that their dogs wag their tails, pant and lick their hand. They claim that dogs don't bite the hand that pets them. While this is not a competition between cats and dogs, I'll give the dogs this one. I had a beautiful dog for many years (she passed away at 12) and she never bit me when I petted her. However, each and every cat (except one) has nipped at my hand.
So, why do cats bite the hand that pets them? I decided to do a little research to see if I can find the answer.
From what I can tell, it looks like experts do not agree on the reasons for this pet-then-bite behavior, therefore many theories abound regarding what is called petting-induced aggression.
One theory is that unlike dogs, which are more social, petting may be something outside of a cat's normal instinctive behavior. A suggested remedy is that cats need to be socialized to people as very young kittens. Even 5 minutes of human contact each day of a cat's life up to 7 weeks of age will produce a much more trusting cat than those cats that did not have human contact until they were older than 7 weeks. However, this remedy does not explain all petting-induced aggressive behavior since properly socialized cats can still display this behavior. And this remedy does not help those of us who adopted adult cats.
Some experts theorize that a cat may bite once the petting exceeds her sensitivity threshold. According to this theory, while the cat enjoys the human contact at first, the repetitiveness of the petting becomes irritating and the cat turns and bites as a way of saying "Enough".
Another theory is that the petting not only causes irritation but that it may also cause static electricity or actual pain because of the cat's nervous system. Or, sometimes the cat may have pain in a particular area and your touch or even the belief that you will touch that area may trigger the aggressive behavior.
One more theory suggests that sometimes cats may find petting so pleasurable that they actually fall asleep (with open eyes). If they wake up suddenly, they may not recognize that they are being petted and may believe that you are trying to confine them. Instinctively they may bite and run before they are fully aware that they were being petted.
The final theory I found is about control. Some cats need to control the situation where they determine when the petting starts and when it stops. What is perceived as petting-induced aggression is a way for the cat let you know who is in charge. I think this behavior is more in line with my experience.
No matter the reason for the petting-induced aggression, there are some things that you can do to decrease the chance your cat will suddenly bite you while being petted.
If you notice biting when you pet your cat in a particular area, it is important to find out if your cat has a medical condition that may cause pain when he is being petted, therefore take him to the vet for a thorough examination. Petting may cause the pain to worsen or the cat to become anxious that you may touch a painful area.
Like it or not, we just need to realize that some cats simply do no enjoy being petted. Cats are unique and while some cats enjoy human contact, love to cuddled and petted, others do not like human-initiated contact. These cats may enjoy some human closeness like sitting on your lap, but they don't want to be picked up and petted. We need to understand that just like you cannot change the basic personality of humans with whom we interact, you will not be able to change the basic personality of your cat and need to accept him as he is.
While we may miss the warnings, cats seldom suddenly turn and bite. An observant cat parent will notice the following clues before the aggressive behavior starts:
ears may go flat or back
stiffening of the body
twitching of the skin or tail
dilated pupils
a low growl
unsheathing of the claws
If you see any of these signs, stop petting immediately and allow the cat to leave.
Once you are aware of the warning signs, you can begin to predict your cat's petting tolerance level. Begin by timing from the moment when you begin to pet your cat to the first instance of the warning signs. You can do this over the course of a week or so. Then, the next time you pet, make sure that you do not exceed this time limit. However, while timing may provide a good guide you still need to watch out for the warning clues.
You can also change the way in which you pet your cat. Some cats may prefer to receive short small strokes; others prefer to be scratched under the chin or between the ears. Not all cats enjoy whole-body petting. Try to pet your cat using different methods. It should become pretty clear very quickly which methods are tolerable and which are not.
If your cat does bite during petting, please do not physically correct her as this may cause more aggression. However, you can reward your cat for not biting by giving your cat a treat after each stroke she tolerates. Over time, your cat may associate the petting with treats and, barring any pain, may experience an increased petting tolerance threshold.
In the end, only you know your cat and while you can try all of the suggestions, you may have a cat that simply does not like to be petted. While it is hard to resist that fuzzy little belly, chin, neck, etc., you may simply have to find another more mutually enjoyable way of expressing your affection to your cat.
Soft Paws for cats is a great alternative to declawing a cat. Many cat owners are hesitant to declaw their cats in order to stop them from scratching up the furniture. There are many reasons why cat owners avoid declawing their cats including the cats'' safety.
Declawing a cat is a painful surgery that includes the removal of the last joint of your cat''s claws. In some countries it is considered mutilation. Declawing a cat for the owner''s convenience is considered inhumane in many parts of the world.
Prior to Soft Paws for cats becoming an option, most cat owners either clipped their cats'' paws or declawed their cats. Neither option was or is an ideal solution
The brilliant new invention by a veterinarian is basically a set of vinyl claw covers designed to prevent a cat from destroying furniture, carpeting, etc. The claw covers will not stop your cat from trying to claw your furniture but it will prevent them from causing damage.
The lightweight vinyl is proving easy to put on a cat and comfortable enough that cats do not try to remove them.
As you can imagine, many cat owners are having their fun with the product. They come in over 20 colors which means you can mix and match and have some fun. Whether you do all four paws in the same color, change the color of each paw, or even change the color of each claw, you can certainly have fun with the vinyl claw covers.
To make it easier to mix and match, Soft Paws for cats even offers rainbow packs and other multi-color packs that cat owners seem to love.
If you are looking for a way to stop your cat or cats from destroying your furniture, bedding, carpets, etc then you should consider these great alternatives to declawing.
Shedding is a necessary process for cats since the old hair has to fall out to make room for the new. However, excessive shedding in cats can be a huge problem for owners since it sticks to everything in the home. This is particularly a problem for owners of longer-haired breeds. Here are a few tips to reduce cat shedding.
Diet
Believe it or not, your cat's diet plays a role in how much she sheds. If you have a problem with excessive shedding, then try increasing the amount of fatty acids that your kitty consumes. Flax seed and salmon oils are particularly good for this problem too.
Grooming
Cats groom themselves pretty well. However, you can help out significantly by brushing your cat as much as possible. Doing so on a daily basis will really help reduce cat shedding. Know that there are different types of brushes designed for cats and other pets. You will more than likely need multiple types of brushes to do the job effectively.
Bathing
As virtually every owner can attest to, cats really dislike water. That's why it's so difficult to give them a good bath. Bathing them though is a great way to limit shedding in cats. If you're having major issues giving your feline a bath, then consider starting out slowly.
Only put enough water in the tub to cover up her feet while you bathe her. After a few sessions of this, she will hopefully get used to the process. Then, you can start giving her more thorough baths, complete with shampoo.
Parasites
If shedding in cats becomes excessive, then parasites could possibly be the problem. Infestations can cause extreme itching, which leads to scratching and the hair falling out.Fleasand ticks need to be controlled via a combination of methods such as medications and collars. Ensure that you regularly inspect your cat for other parasites too.
If you want to keep your home tidy with a cat that's shedding a lot walking around, then you'll need to clean regularly. Lint rollers will be invaluable. It's best that you get loose hair up as soon as possible. It will be easiest to get up early before it really gets attached to upholstery. Consider using afurniture covertoo.
Using these tips will help reduce cat shedding. Be wary if your cat starts losing a lot of hair suddenly though. It could be a sign that something serious is wrong like an infection or illness, and you would need to take your cat to the vet for a checkup.
As you have learned, cat shedding can be caused by many different things. One problem that can easily lead tohair lossiscat ringworm. Every owner should learn a thing or two about various diseases that can affect their feline friend. Fortunately for you, common-cat-diseases.com provides information on many of thesecat health problems. Head over today!
Wild birds are surely capable of feeding themselves off the land. However, when weather extremes make things tougher for them, having an additional source of food or water can be a life saver.
You may see flocks of red-winged blackbirds descend on your backyard seed feeder before they leave their northern range. Feeders can help prepare wild birds for their long journey of migration. You may live on the southwest coast of North America and see Anna's Hummingbirds at your nectar feeder in the winter. Wherever you live, your wild birds can certainly use a helping hand from time to time throughout the year.
Wild birds will come to feed at many different types of feeders depending on the type of feeder they prefer. Some birds prefer most to forage from the ground or platform feeders, as do cardinals. Others as this male house finch will feed from the ground, platform feeders, tube feeders, and seed feeders readily all as one. Others still, like the goldfinch prefer thistle seed from open fields or from tube feeders.
Platform feeders will attract Chipping Sparrows, Cardinals, American Tree Sparrows, Towhees, Rose-Breasted Grosbeak, Blue Grosbeak, Song Sparrows, White-Throated Sparrows, Meadowlarks, Evening Grosbeak, Blue Jays, Magpies, Steller's Jays, Yellow-Bellied Sapsuckers, Downy Woodpeckers, Mourning Doves, Black-Capped Chickadee, Gray Catbirds, Eastern Bluebirds, Pine Grosbeak, Northern Mockingbirds, and others.
Platform feeders can be as simple as a piece of wood on your picnic table, or your picnic table itself. However, that can be quite messy. Another option would be to get a 4x4 post and nail a wood plank sized 12 x 12 or larger to the top of the post. Drill holes through the wood plank so that water does not just sit as a puddle. To prevent most of the food pieces from just falling off to the ground, you may take some thin wood trimming and nail it to the border of the wood plank. Nailing the wood trim to surround the border of the wood plank will help keep most of the nuts, fruit, suet, or bread from just falling off. Although, having some of the scraps fall to the ground is good, as this will also attract other birds that will like to forage on the ground most often.
Suet Feeders attract: Blue Jays, Yellow-Bellied Sapsuckers, Downy Woodpeckers, Hairy Woodpeckers, Northern Flickers, Black-Capped Chickadee, Tufted Titmouse, Nuthatch, Eastern Bluebirds, Northern Mockingbirds, Brown Creepers, Gray Catbirds, Wrens, Steller's Jays, and more.
A suet feeder is typically made of wire mesh, and easily hung from a tree branch, hanger, or pole.
Fruit feeders/ Fruit & Jelly Feeders attract Orioles, Western Tanagers, Scarlet Tanagers, and Rose-Breasted Grosbeak.
Fruit feeders will typically utilize cups for jelly as in the feeder above, with side pins for sticking orange halves.
Peanut Feeders attract: Indigo Bunting, Blue Jays, Woodpeckers, Nuthatch, Eastern Bluebirds, and others.
Hummingbird or Sugar Water Feeders attract more than Hummingbirds. They also will attract Bullock's Orioles, Baltimore Orioles, Western Tanagers, and House Finch among others.
Seed Feeders attract: Painted Bunting, Purple Finch, American Goldfinch, Pine Siskin, Grosbeak, House Sparrows, Juncos, Common Redpoll, Red Crossbill, Tree Sparrows, and many more.
Did you know that some types of Cockatoos have black feathers? What about the fact that their beaks have a distinctive design that allows them to deliver a powerful "three-way" bite? There are many amazing and fascinating things about Cockatoos that aren't all that well known, even by those who are self-professed bird lovers.
• The Cockatiel was first discovered in Australia in 1770. It did not become popular until the Australian gold rush in the nineteen hundreds.
• The fumes emitted from cookware coated with Teflon can kill your Cockatiel.
• Cockatiel seeds, how do you know if they are good and nutritious?
Sprout them! If less than 70% of the seeds sprout, they have died and also its nutritional value. Place some cockatiel seeds on a container covered with a paper towel. Soak the seeds with water. Make sure you keep the seed moist for the next few days by just spraying them, they should sprout in about 4 to 5 days. You can wash them and can give them to your tiel, they are very good and nutritious.
• Do you know what a Galatiel is? Is when a cockatiel and an Australian bird named Gallah have chicks together
• In the wild, you'll see immense flocks of cockatiels circling the sky in search of large bodies of water where they can rest, breed, and escape from the Australian heat.
• Cockatiels are very sociable birds and will get depressed if they are left alone for long periods of time. They may hit their heads against cages, pull their feathers, refuse to eat, or become angry. It’s best to get a pair of cockatiels if you know you’ll be out of your house for long periods of time.
• Male cockatiels are better are talking and whistling than female cockatiels. In the wild the male cockatiel use sounds to attract females.
• Cockatiels can be considered as the most widely kept parrot other than parakeet or budgie.
• Hand fed cockatiels are more likely to talk than the parent fed ones.
• If having a talking bird is your prime goal you might consider a larger parrot before getting a cockatiel. It's easier for a cockatiel to whistle than to talk.
• The cockatiel life span can reach up to 22 years, though the standard is 15 years. This life span is based on proper care, nutrition and environment where your tiel lives.
• Drafty areas in your house can be very bad for your cockatiel, it can even kill them by making your tiel very sick. Don't place the cage anywhere there might bea direct or indirect draft like air conditioning vents. If you want to find out if there is a draft you are not aware of, place a candle in the area you are thinking of placing the cage. It if flickers, there's a draft there, so find another area for your cage.
These pesky creatures can be quite the annoyance for any homeowner hoping to attract a good number of garden birds. They're not particularly large for a bird of prey, but this means they're evolutionarily trained for hunting birds in confined spaces. They traditionally seek out their prey in dense woodlands, and the closed in nature of modern garden makes them an ideal hunting ground for sparrowhawks seeking a quick and easy meal, especially with the huge number of birds hanging around.
If they attack you'll not only have to deal with losing a regular visitor, but other birds will likely move on to another garden, at least until the sparrowhawk sees fit to change its hunting ground once more. Being able to deter them is a useful skill, so it's worth taking a look at just how you can manage to keep them away.
(More) Confined Spaces
So sparrowhawks enjoy confined spaces? Then you'llgivethem confined spaces! They may be effective at swooping in to attack within a small area, but they still need line of site and a certaindegreeof room. If you're looking to protect birds from their approach then consider placing small feeders within the branches of your actual trees, if you have any.
The smaller birds will still be able to feed from them happily enough. Birds of prey will be shut off by the canopy, and can't effectively swoop through leaves. Thisdoesleave your feeders vulnerable to squirrels, but a quick dab of chilli powder will keep those nuisances away.
Bring a Bigger Bird
Now, sparrowhawks aren't particularly fazed by the presence of a human, but they can'tstandbeing around larger birds. If you don't mind their presence, consider luring some crows or seagulls over. They'll often circle your property, and the sparrowhawks will be certain to keep their distance.
These birds are ground feeders, so leave some kind of larger food on your roof for maximum visibility. Peanuts are a good choice, but other birds may pick up a few themselves. Once they're there though, they'll actually be protecting the smaller birds in your garden, and don't even share a food supply.
But Don't Jump to Conclusions
We may be discussing how to get rid of sparrowhawks here, but it's important to remember they're not necessarily a menace. If you're attracting their entire food supply to your garden it's fairly logical they'll still want to eat. They're actually quite majestic, and their 'rollercoaster' mating ritual can make for an exciting sight if you don't mind their eating habits.
Francesca has beenwritingabout birds and bird feeding since university, and shows no signs of stopping now. She recently became a featured contributor toGarden Bird Supplies, and hopes the new partnership will help propel her to a wider audience than ever before.
A clean environment for your bird will keep you and your pet healthier. Sometimes it may feel like effective cleaning is easier talked about than done. But following the 5 suggestions below will help you drastically reduce the number of particles in your bird room.
Avoid Particle Traps----There are so many places in the usual home and even bird room that can trap allergens. Wall-to-wall carpet, upholstered furnishings, piles of books and magazines, fabric draperies, horizontal blinds, and the list goes on and on.
Most of these surfaces are woven and can trap an unbelievable number of particles that can and are sent airborne with daily activities. The more of these you can eliminate, the better you will be able to clean thoroughly and really reduce the number of particles that are even available to get into your air.
As you add to and replace furnishings in your bird room and home, think bird-friendly replacements. Opt for easy-to-launderthrow rugsthat are easy to launder. Consider furniture that can be wiped down with a damp cloth rather than fabric covered pieces.
Choose linoleum, tile, wood, or other hard surface that can be mopped clean. And think about shades that can be rolled up and wiped clean andvertical blindsas options that will allow more particles to fall to the floor.
Say No---Saying no to just one more bird can mean that the bird(s) you have already adopted will have a better life. If you are a bird-lover you probably want to give every homeless bird a good life. But depending on the size of your space, continuing to add birds past a certain point makes it nearly impossible to keep conditions healthy.
"The more the merrier" rule does not apply in this situation. Offering fewer birds a good life trumps having a ton of birds that you are unable to care for properly.
Clean Often---How often you clean will be your call based on your situation. But you'll be able to tell if your schedule is working pretty quickly. Some people are able to clean every couple of days, and others feel they need to clean every day and sometimes more than once a day.
Your frequency will depend on the number and type of birds you have. Those with powder-down birds such as African Greys, Cockatoos, or Cockatiels may find that more frequent cleaning is necessary to keep up with the incessant white powder that these parrots produce.
The goal is to literally keep the dander and dust down. Your room doesn't need to be able to be able to pass the white glove test, but almost.
Clean Smarter---One of the best ways to really take particles out of circulation is to use water to clean. Adding water to the mix with a damp mop or cloth makes the particulates too heavy to escape into the air again and gives you more of a chance of permanently eliminating them.
A vacuum with a HEPA or high efficiency particle arresting filter is also an excellent way to make sure that what is sucked into the vacuum cleaner stays in the vacuum cleaner. Keep the broom and dust mop out of the mix and opt for the vacuum cleaner.
Filter The Air---Regardless of how smart or frequently you clean, particles will get into the air. Particles just come with the territory when you live with birds. The only way to reliably keep theair cleanis to filter it continuously.
HEPA filtration is best because its only by-product is fresh air. There are no ionized particles or ozone levels to worry about.
HEPA filtration is used by hospitals and will surely work for you in your situation. This type of filter must have proven that it is able to eliminate 99.97% of airborne particulates that are.3 microns or greater.
Together, these 5 steps can take you closer to providing a wonderful life for you avian friends, and a healthier life for all who live with them.
Keep the air clean for your bird 24 hours a day with a purifier that can send 250 cubic feet of fresh air into your room every 60 seconds. See the Bird Dust Air Purifier from PurerAir.com now athttp://purerair.com/bird_dust_air_purifier.html
Your cockatiel can go from beautiful to bare if he gets into the habit of plucking his feathers. Plucking goes beyond preening or molting. If your cockatiel is creating bare spots, take him to anavian veterinarian. Your vet will check fordiseasesthat cause feather-plucking. If it's not a physical problem, you'll still need to observe your cockatiel closely. At the same time, don't give him any attention when he's plucking. Only pay attention to him when he's being a good bird. In addition, your vet can give you advice on any dietary or environmental changes your cockatiel may need.
Parakeets are usually good eaters and enjoy a variety of foods. Feeding parakeetsa healthy dietcan be fun and easy.Whole grain cereal, orange slices, whole grain bread and broccoli are all treats my parakeets enjoy.
Parrots do not like to have their toenails trimmed and most parrot owners do not like to trim. It is easy to trim too high and cause bleeding which creates problems of its own. We have found that the Sandy Perches are by far the best perches to have to maintain trimmed toenails. The more time your parrot spends on a sandy perch the better. These perches are actually manzanita branches covered with a sand mixture. We do not recommend the concrete variety as they will absorb the moisture from the birds feet. Sandy Perches come in several different applications ( cage perches, shower perches, chain swings, feeding perches, etc. ) to offer your parrot an opportunity to spend more time during different activities. This is deffinately a win - win for parrots and parrot owners. For more information on Sandy Perches, go to www.parrotsupercenter.com
Make sure your bird gets plenty of baths during the molt. The old feather sheaths will come off easier and your bird will be more comfortable
PETZ
KORNER " Special News & Heart Warming Stories & Insights on
Various Other & Unusual Pets"
BE KIND TO ANIMALS...FRIENDS COME IN ALL SHAPES AND SIZES...
BUT KINDNESS IS PRICELESS
Humane Society of The United States
Protection Welfare and Services
Website: www.humanesociety.org
Basic Info: EIN: 53-0225390
Tax Status: 501(c)(3)
Address: 2100 L St Nw
Washington, DC 20037
(202) 452-1100
Contact: Rachel Querry disaster@hsus.org
Mission: The HSUS seeks a humane and sustainable world for all animals--a world that will also benefit people. We are America's mainstream force against cruelty, exploitation, and neglect, and also the nation's most trusted voice extolling the human-animal bond. human-animal bond.
Our mission statement: Celebrating Animals, Confronting Cruelty.
Programs: The Humane Society of the United States (HSUS) has worked since 1954 to promote the protection of all animals. We are the largest and most powerful animal protection organization with nearly 10 million members and constituents.
We celebrate the human-animal bond, and we fight animal cruelty and abuse in all of its forms.
We work to reduce suffering and to create meaningful social change for animals by advocating for public policies to protect animals, investigating cruelty and working to enforce existing laws, educating the public about the issues, and assisting animals when disasters strike.
Our major campaigns target four primary issues:
1) factory farming
2) animal fighting and other forms of animal cruelty
3) the fur trade
4) inhumane sport hunting practices
Our other campaigns take on:
1) puppy mills
2) the private ownership of exotic animals as pets
3) greyhound racing
4) unacceptable animal research and testing practices
Our two signature programs Pets for Life and Wild Neighbors celebrate the benefits of the bond between people and animals who live with us or in our communities, and teach people how to solve human/animal conflicts humanely.
And finally, we provide direct care for thousands of animals at our sanctuaries, wildlife rehabilitation centers, and mobile veterinary clinics.
This Section Has Links For Various Animal Rights and Interests Groups. You can also find additional links on the Pet Resource page.
North Shore Animal League http://www.animalleague.org/
World's Largest No-Kill Animal Rescue
and Adoption Organization
Morris Animal Foundation helps animals enjoy longer, healthier lives by advancing animal health and welfare worldwide. http://www.morrisanimalfoundation.
- Dedicated to freedom for all creatures and an end to all suffering. New Animal Rights organization in northern Ohio.
Advance - Advance is an extensive monthly, national calendar of events. Issues include animal rights, animal welfare, vegetarianism, the environment and humanrights.
The Animal Rights Blog - This blog was created in order to bring into consciousness the sad reality of animal rights around the world in the 21st century. Currently I'm collecting every piece of information I can find regarding this subject, and put it here with reference to the origin. Please comment and spread it to people that may find this interesting.
The Animal Rights FAQ - BLTC Research promote the ultimate eradication of the biological substrates of suffering in sentient life via third-millennium genetic-engineering and nanotechnology.
Animals Rights in Costa Rica - Are you an animal lover? Please visit us, and so you can know more about the animals rights in C.R.
Animal Rights Law Center - Legal briefs, educational materials, case studies for US laws. Public policy towards animals. Students' and conscientious objectors' rights to avoid harming animals.
ENPA Home Page - ENPA (Ente Nazionale Protezione Animali) is an Italian organization devoted to animal protection.
Ethics and Animals - Links and text concerning animal-related ethics, including information on animal rights, animal welfare, animal research, environmentalism, hunting, and vegetarianism, etc.
European Cetacean Organisation (ECO) - ECO is dedicated to ending the captivity of Whales and Dolphins and their abuse by the dolphinmarium industry.
Farm Sanctuary - Farm Sanctuary is a national non-profit organization dedicated to ending the exploitation of animals used in food production.
International Primate Protection League - IPPL has been providing funding, resources, and action to protect primates around the world for the past 20 years. Please join us in protecting our planet and the animals that inhabit it. Visit our web server today to learn more about us.
l'animalista - Bimestrale gestito dalla Lega Italiana dei Diritti dell'Animale. Italy
Law Student Animal Rights Alliance - We are a virtual organization of law students who are for animal rights. We have put together a useful web site for both animal rights law students and activists alike.
Rutgers Animal Rights Law Center - provides educational materials on animals and the law, participates in litigation and other legal matters concerning animals, and advises animal advocates
Students for the Ethical Treatment of Animals of UC - A grass-roots organization dedicated to educating university students as well as the local communities about the exploitation of nonhuman animals. We seek to promote a reasoned, ethical philosophy to guide us in our interactions with all animals.
University of Minnesota - Student Organization for Animal Rights (SOAR) SOAR is a student group at the University of Minnesota working to educate people about animal rights, including the cruelty of modern animal farming using animals for entertainment, and the health and environmental benefits of vegetarianism.
Vegan Outreach - Vegan Outreach is a national organization dedicated to ending animal exploitation through direct outreach.
Freshwater Fish Tanks - Maintenance and Facts
If you are a freshwater fish lover, then there are a few important things you should know about keeping them. Keeping pets are not just for your pleasure and enjoyment, you should be a responsible pet owner. If you want your fish to live long and healthy you should provide them with a safe environment in their aquarium fish tanks. Did you know that keeping fish as pets dates back to ancient China and Egypt? Although most of these fishes were from salt water! Keeping freshwater tropical fishes are a bit different because they require certain temperatures.
Tropical freshwater fish live in warm water. The ideal water temperature of your tropical marine aquarium should be between 76 ? 80 degrees F. In Celsius, that's 24.5 ? 26.7. On the other hand, tropical saltwater fish need warmer temperatures of around 80 ? 82 degrees F. In Celsius, that's around 26.7 ? 27.8. If you are planning on keeping both kinds of fish, then you should have more than one marine fish tank. Salt water aquariums are of course best for your tropical salt water fish, while tropical fish aquariums are for your tropical fresh water fish. But in this article, we will be mainly discussing fresh water fish.
You can buy a lot of fish tanks for beginners which are very easy to set up and maintain at many discount fish tanks stores in your local area. There are many types of freshwater fishes. There are coldwater freshwater fishes, tropical fishes, and coldwater marine fishes. The most popular of all three are the coldwater freshwater fish, mainly because of the popularity of the gold fish as a pet which is one. Tropical marine fishes are probably next, mainly because of their bright beautiful colors. A good example of which is a clown fish, which happens to be the protagonist in the Disney movie Finding Nemo!
Coldwater marine fishes are also popular, an example of which is the Blenny. You can't find these kinds of fishes at salt water fish stores; you would have to look for them in tropical fish stores of course. A tropical marine aquarium is relatively harder to maintain because of their water chemistry. Not to mention that marine fishes are more sensitive to saltwater fishes because they aren't usually subjected to much changes in the environment. Therefore keeping your fish tank conducive for your fishes' environment is of the essence.
Factor in the aquarium supplies you'll need, fish aquarium filters, fish aquarium lights and if you want to, living corals. A reef aquarium tank is much harder to maintain especially if you are a beginner, but the rewards are all well worth it if you are up for the challenge. Now we're not trying to scare you off here, we are just elaborating the essentials to ensure the well being of your tropical fish. Once you get a hang the hang of it, you'll find that managing your freshwater fish tanks are much easier and simpler than when you first started out.
SNAKES....AS PETS
Snakes are fascinating, and with regular handling can be quite tame. However, snakes are obviously not the right pets for everyone. They have unique requirements and should only be kept by those with the commitment to understand and meet their needs. If you are new to pet snakes, find out what you should consider before deciding on a pet snake, and what species are the best snakes for beginners.
Choosing a Snake as a Pet - First Things First
When choosing a snake, you are making a long term commitment - many can be expected to live longer than 20 years.
You must be willing to feed prey animals to your snake (though frozen, pre-killed prey is the best choice), and you will probably have to devote some freezer space to frozen prey items (i.e. rodents).
Snakes are very adept escape artists, so make sure you have an escape-proof tank, keeping in mind that snakes are persistent about finding and squeezing through any small gaps.
Finally, as beautiful as they are, I strongly recommend against anyone keeping large constricting snakes or venomous snakes.
About Choosing Your Snake
Get a captive bred snake from a reputable breeder, if at all possible. Wild caught snakes tend to be more stressed and prone to parasites and disease, and more difficult to tame. For more about the advantages of captive bred reptiles, see Should I Get a Wild Caught or Captive Bred Reptile?
You will also want to do a cursory exam of your snake to check for any signs of illness: see Choosing a Healthy Reptile for areas and signs to look at.
It also doesn't hurt to ask for a feeding demonstration, to make sure your new snake is readily taking pre-killed prey and feeding well. Ball pythons are somewhat notorious for having feeding problems, so this is especially a good idea with ball pythons (though if you get a captive breed ball python it seems less likely that feeding problems will crop up).
Recommended Beginner Snakes
These are all reasonably sized, fairly easy to care for, and tend to be quite docile:
Corn Snakes
King and Milk Snakes
Ball Pythons
Snakes to Avoid
Beginners should avoid large constricting snakes, venomous snakes, and snakes with more difficult care requirements, including such snakes as:
Boa constrictors / red-tailed boas (not as large as some constricting snakes, but still a handful, especially for beginners)
Burmese pythons
Tree boas or pythons
Water snakes
Green snakes
Snakes Not Recommended as Pets at All Snakes that are potentially very dangerous (to their owners or others around them) are best avoided as pets, including:
Reticulated pythons
Anacondas
Any venomous snakes
General Pet Snake Information for Beginners
Feeding Snakes: Pre-Killed vs Live Prey - feeding pre-killed prey is recommended, since a live rodent can inflict some serious wounds on a snake in self defence (bonus: it is more convenient to keep a supply of frozen prey in your freezer than raising or buying live animals for feeding).
How to Provide a Thermal Gradient - snakes need to be able to regulate their body temperature by moving between cooler and warmer areas. Providing a gradient and making sure the warm side of the tank is warm enough are essential to your snake's health and ability to digest its meals.
Signs a Snake is About to Shed - there are some fairly common signs in a snake about to shed that might seem a bit alarming to a new snake owner.
How Can I Tell if My Snake is a Male or Female? - the short answer: you will probably need a pro to find out for sure.
How to Find and Escaped Pet - just in case your new snake turns out to be an escape artist, this general information on finding lost pets might help you track down your pet (keep in mind, a snake will most likely head for a warm, enclosed space).
Constricting Snakes - some cautions about larger constricting snakes and handling guidelines, along with information specific to boas and pythons.
Whatever snake is chosen, new owners should be familiar with the proper care and feeding, the
behavioral characteristics, and the commitment required to keep the snake.
DENTAL ISSUES 
About Cats 
Facts About Cockatoos 
World Wildlife Fund
